Wines of New Zealand

by Mike Pipp

New Zealand. Thoughts of tropical islands, a different way of life, and animals found nowhere else in the world. Until the late 1980's, no one thought of New Zealand in terms of wine. That is when New Zealand's Sauvignon Blancs began to appear on the world stage. Intensely flavored, with hints of exotic flavors, Sauvignon Blanc awoke the world to what these islands could produce. New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs can easily match Pouilly Fume and Sancerre, the French benchmarks of this grape.

Located halfway between the Equator and the South Pole, New Zealand is the southernmost region in the world for wine production. Because of its size, the vineyards on each major island are no more than 80 miles from the ocean, creating a consistent maritime climate. Warm days and cool nights allow the grapes to ripen fully without the development of sugary flavors. This microclimate is particularly beneficial to Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.

Grapes were first planted in New Zealand in the early 1800's, although they largely consisted of hybrids that produced well but made poor wines. In addition, New Zealand had a very strong temperance movement that inhibited wine production. Sales to consumers weren't allowed until after World War II, and even then, it wasn't until the 1960's that the laws changed to allow wine sales from shops and in restaurants!

The entire vineyard area of New Zealand is tiny in comparison to most wine grape growing regions of the world. Both islands combined have fewer vineyards than California's Napa Valley. Both of the main islands have designated areas, primarily in the lowlands located between the mountainous coastal regions. The North Island wines will see designations like Auckland, Gisbourne, Hawke's Bay, and Martinborough. The South Island vineyards are labeled Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago. Each area is a tiny microclimate that offers intense varietal character and specific qualities. The maritime climate allows for slow ripening, and the development of flavors and nuances. Over 75% of the wines made from these regions are white, primarily Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

It is Sauvignon Blanc that puts New Zealand wines on the map. The focus is on fruit flavors, with passion fruit and gooseberry predominating. These flavors are new to Americans used to the "grassy" flavors found in most California Sauvignon Blancs. They are excellent with foods, especially shellfish, seafood, and spicier dishes like Indian and Thai. They also compliment a variety of salads, as their crispness balances the acidity of salad dressings and the tartness of tomato.

From the late 1800's to the mid-1950's, there was a constant emigration from the Dalmation Coast (now Croatia) to New Zealand. A number of families brought European wine making techniques with them. One such family was the Nobilos. Early production consisted of sweet wines and high-production grapes that were more suitable to the table than to wines. Later generations replanted with fine wine grapes like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The Nobilo family, led by Nils Nobilo, has a winemaking history going back over 300 years. The Nobilos developed vineyard sites in Auckland, Hawkes Bay, Gisbourne, and Marlborough. In 1998, they purchased the estate of Selak, another Croation family that had developed a successful wine industry, increasing their resources dramatically.

Nobilo makes a fine value-priced Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. However, it is their line of Reserve wines, labeled "Icon" that has brought them to the foreground of fine New Zealand wines. The Icon Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough designation) has the traditional bouquet of gooseberries, nettles, and rich herbal characters, backed by rich tropical fruit flavors. It offers clean, balanced flavors typical of the islands. (Try it with shellfish/seafood/lighter chicken dishes). The Icon Pinot Noir (Marlborough) boasts what New Zealand has to offer with this grape. Medium bodied, it has flavors of plum, savory, and spices. Tannins are soft, giving it a smooth mouth-feel. (Try it with "meaty" fishes like salmon, duck, turkey, and other herbed poultry). It is a versatile red that can enhance many dishes. The Icon Pinot Noir shows the promise of this grape in New Zealand.

New Zealand is perhaps the newest wine region for wine lovers to discover. Its whites, especially Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay offer great values. The development of Pinot Noir has the greatest potential outside of the Burgundy region of France. All together, New Zealand wines should be on every wine lover's "cutting edge."